The F/W 2013 season has just ended and so it’s time to summarise what we think will be next fall and winter trends. The first thing that comes to mind after following 4 cities’ presentations and shows is that designers with history are making it clear they have one (more on this later) and new ones are making sure they present wearable, sellable clothes (with obviously some exceptions). The industry has seen some shocking lay-offs recently. The new motto is “nobody is safe”, not even those designers who were considered Gods by consumers and journalists alike.
But back to the trends. Creative and rich materials: lace and “laced” leathers and silks, furs (Fendi’s modern take on their furry heritage was phenomenal) , rich tweeds (even Haider Ackermann went there), trash bag–textured varnished nylon (JW Anderson put it with fur); black made a huge come back but was also used a lot with creams and whites (Chanel, Valentino, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga by Alexander Wang); white (Celine) gender mixing with materials (Stella’s lovely pin striped), and styles (Chanel’s and Lanvin’s flats, Ackermann trousers); big coats and overcoats (magical at Celine).
Prada, Dolce and Gabbana, Chanel, Lanvin and many more presented a sort of greatest hits of their work over the years, so did Tom Ford by going back to an overtly sexy (and to my opinion a tiny vulgar) woman, followed by Versace and Gucci.
The result of showing heritage and skills was stunning and even surprising, both for Prada and Dolce and Gabbana. So was for the much smaller Todd Lynn, who went back to what he always did best, tailoring and leather.
Victoria Beckham together with Valentino, in my opinion were the closest to perfection in giving lessons in elegance. Both are catering to a real grown up woman who believes that sexy comes from chic rather than skin. Both were my highlights of their cities (NYC, and Paris). In this regard, even if in a more contemporary way, I would mention the incredible Celine and Bottega Veneta shows.
We have seen some American grunge (Saint Laurent Paris by Hedi Slimane) and some deconstructed architectural shapes (J.W Anderson in London). We have appreciated some “costume magic” with Giles, remarkable, in London and Alexander McQueen in Paris and we have hated to like the Alexander Wang debut at Balenciaga.
Separates are back and have definitely taken over dresses for daywear, to the advantage of trousers, skirts (Celine’s one will be a must buy) and shirts. This is an obvious effort to help customers to style themselves as they wish and to use and re-use their pricey buys in different ways.
The Valentino Calvinist gowns inspired by the Dutch painters were so beautiful they made me tear up, and that only happened once before, 5 or 6 years ago when Lee McQueen (aka Alexander) had Kate Moss appear in an hologram at the end of his show.
Lastly, don’t forget to pile up any kind of accessories: gloves, furry and not, hats and any kind of head decorations, jewellery (the bigger the better), all to wear with simple hair (after sporting short hair for 15 years I am happy to report that a cropped head is now definitely cool) and “no make up” make up. Show your glowing skin with a beautiful tailored coat and you’ll be fine!